A Walk in Honour of All Fallen Heroes
Preparation Time: 10 Days
Walking Duration: 5 Days
Walking Distance: 142 km.
Walk Date: 14 – 19 December 2022
Walking Route: Gelibolu – Bolayır – Güneyli – Yeniköy – Fındıklı – Değirmendüzü – Tayfur Village – Karainbeyli – Yolağzı – Kumköy – Büyük Anafarta – Arıburnu – Alçıtepe (Kirte) – Morto Bay – Seddülbahir – Çanakkale Martyrs’ Monument – Alçıtepe – Behramlı – Kilitbahir – Eceabat .
This walk — the one just before the Continental Australian journey — may well have been the most profound experience I’ve had so far. Though I’d visited these sacred lands many times before, each return stirred something deep within me. The mystic aura that cloaks Gallipoli never fails to move me. It’s a place where history breathes, where the ground seems to whisper the stories of those who never came home.
I found myself reliving every moment of that great war of resistance, over and over again. Each step I took awakened a trembling awareness of the sacrifices my ancestors made to defend Anatolia — the land that stretches beyond the Gallipoli Peninsula. What I had studied so thoroughly at the Military and Staff Academies — the naval and land campaigns of Çanakkale — came alive beneath my feet. And then, as I stood before the resting places of those who had travelled tens of thousands of kilometres to reach these shores — leaving behind their families, wives, children, mothers and fathers — I was overcome by a grief too vast for words. Did they know, I wondered, that they were seeing their homes, their loved ones, for the very last time? Did they even know they were being sent into the jaws of war?
In the battles of Çanakkale — both on land and at sea — especially here on the Gallipoli Peninsula, a nation came face to face with the leader who would one day bring it back to life. Our revered founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, revealed his brilliance as a military strategist on these very hills. But more than that, alongside his brave comrades who had joined this sacred resistance from every corner of our land, he helped awaken a spirit of unity — reminding an entire people, young and old, women and men alike, of the deep values and virtues that had always been ours. Yet the cost was immeasurable. We lost a whole generation of bright young minds — future scientists, writers, artists, teachers, doctors and engineers. Most were just boys, aged between 15 and 18, whose dreams fell silent on these battlefields.
The Gallipoli campaign was, in many ways, a sacred war — one where humanity was both destroyed and reborn in the hands of the young.
But why, you may ask, am I reflecting so deeply on war in what is meant to be a memoir about a walk? Because I believe the very ground I tread still carries a profound spiritual bond — one that endures, no matter what others may think. And now, I feel it is time to carry that spirit — which I believe will never fade from these hallowed lands — some 14,500 kilometres away.
As I prepare for my first walking journey across the Australian continent, I do so with quiet certainty: the spirit of Çanakkale will walk beside me, every step of the way.
I completed my preparations for this walk in just ten days. Thanks to regular training over a long period, I was already in good physical condition. Although I still lacked a few pieces of gear, there was nothing critical enough to jeopardise the journey.
To be honest, my only real concern was the presence of shepherd dogs in the area — which is said to be quite intense. Reluctantly, I decided to carry a dog repellent spray with me, hoping I’d never need to use it.
For the first five days, we planned to source all our logistical needs from nearby towns and store them in my car. My dear friend Tamer, who kindly chose not to let me walk this journey alone, would follow me in the car — driving, supporting, and volunteering his time to be there whenever needed.
In many ways, this walk felt like a small-scale rehearsal for the much greater journey across the Australian continent. And I knew that any experience gained here — no matter how minor it seemed — might one day spare me from despair or helplessness in the vastness of that much longer road.
I planned my walk over five days, aiming to cover an average of 25 to 30 kilometres each day. This would also be my first time walking along roads with motor vehicle traffic. To be honest, the biggest danger on such journeys comes from careless drivers. That’s why I intended to keep to the left-hand side as much as possible, walking facing oncoming traffic rather than having it at my back.
I’d only carry essentials for urgent needs — communication devices, water, and some energy-boosting snacks. On top of that, I was trying out a new pair of walking shoes for the very first time. Sticking with familiar footwear is usually crucial for both foot health and endurance, but my previous Skechers were becoming quite worn. So, this walk was an important chance to find better travel companions for my feet.
Although I planned to use walking poles, I was determined not to adopt the Nordic walking technique. My goal was to maintain a steady pace — averaging 4.5 to 5 kilometres per hour — and complete each day’s journey within 6 to 8 hours before darkness fell, with just short breaks.
My logistician friend Tamer and I agreed on a ‘waiting points’ system. He would stay behind me on the risky stretches of road, keeping eye contact for safety. On quieter sections, he’d scout ahead and wait for me at a pre-decided spot.
For the first three days, we planned to camp in tents. After reaching Büyük Anafartalar Village, however, we would enter the National Park — where camping is strictly prohibited. So, we decided to stay in motels or hostels nearby, which also meant a welcome chance for a hot shower.
Truth be told, I wanted to finish my walk back at Gallipoli, where it all began. But since that would have added an extra day to our journey, we settled on completing it in Eceabat instead.
Our starting point was the Gallipoli Military House. My only wish was for the weather to stay kind. While a bit of cold or rain wouldn’t be a dealbreaker, heavy downpours or lightning storms could threaten the whole plan.
I left Istanbul on the evening of December 13th, filled with excitement and curiosity about what lay ahead. My first stop was Keşan district. From there, I planned to pick up my friend Tamer at midnight, and together we’d head to Gallipoli — arriving at the walk’s starting line by dawn.
We were set to begin our first true day of walking on December 14th. You can find more about the days that followed, and the memories I gathered, in my other posts.
With love,
In the name of the Spirit of Çanakkale
Walkerspirit 